(I’ll have to admit that I’m writing this quite a while after the event.)
So, Italy Rail. Horror of Horrors. Late trains, missed connections, and stinky, stinky people. The worst was one trian trip. We had a room with 6 seats, there was us two, and another guy in a suit. Then 3 large guys come in, and they stank. Not just, it was a hot day stink, but the guiy next to me had a 7 days sweat stink. And he talked, and when he talked he’d life his arms, and they stank. Really, really stank. For and hour.
And trains were still late. We got to the town at about 10pm, late because we had to change our route. And trains were late. (Did I mention that?) But after walking all over town, we found a place to stay (that was the first we tried, but we still had to look for somewhere cheaper.) Although expensive, it was the nicest place we stayed in.
As for the town of Lucca itself, it was really nice. Quite, rustic and clean. The complete opposite of Naples. And it was close enough to Milan to not have to worry about leaving at the crack of dawn the next morning.